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Sunday, February 19, 2012

More Convoy and also Bamakas

I’m participating in a CdA (Choix des Armées – too lazy to search for the English name) IF in Warfo.
I’m started today, but I also painted others miniatures that aren’t participating in this event (I painted them while waiting for the event lauch).
I hope you like them!


Sunday, February 12, 2012

It’s all about bases

This week, I work in my miniatures bases.
I bought some resin bases from TABAN miniatures, which are awesome for the EDEN game.
I tested three bases in my Convoy miniatures. It’s been three that I painted them (so, before the painting workshop), but as they are without a proper base, I didn’t post them.
So, there they are: Otto, Jeremy and Gretchen.

(just for the record: the new post interface for the blogger really SUCKS!!! If someone has some tips of how put pictures in the post without all the chaos, I gladdly take them)

Monday, February 6, 2012

JFJ2012: Painting contest review

Last week-end was the ‘Journée de Figurines & Jeux 2012’ (JFJ12 for short) at Sartrouville.
I participated in the organization of this event, being in charge of the painting contests.
It was a hard work, especially that it was my first time doing an event of that size, but it was awesome.
 In the first day of the event (my day-off), I participated in the Alkemy tournament. I played as a drunken monkey, but the luck in the dices gave me a 13th place (right in the middle of the rank).
In the second day, I worked in the painting contest (witch I also participated in the Beginners’ category of the Open), receiving the subscriptions for the contests, supervising the speed-painting sections, organizing the judgment and the prizes.
The best of all was when the judges came to judge the beginners’ category. They arrived, and looked at the twenty pieces in this category. Normally, they passed about 15 minutes arguing before concluding the winner of the others categories, but in this category, one the judges just pointed at my little miniature of Chelsea (click here for the post about her) hidden behind a great dragon miniature (also mine) and said: “It’s clear! This is the one, no doubt!”, and the others judges agreed.
I was chocked! I was hopping to win something (gold were only in my wildest dreams), but never thought to be like that, so clear and easy.
More than that, I also won the silver medal in the single miniature of the EDEN category with the same miniature. The most amazing is that in this category, all levels of mastery (beginner, confirmed and master) were involved!
This conquest was very important to me. Not only because of the trophies (no doubt that they are important), but most of all they gave me confidence in my work. I know that my miniatures are well painted, but I didn’t believe that they were in the level to give me the gold (and the silver) in my first contest.

Gold: Begginer Category of the Open / Silver: Single Miniature Category of EDEN

Receiving the prize from Benoit, the CEO of TABAN Miniatures
Begginer Category. My gold miniature is the one in the red circle, at the top left.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Painting Workshop: Chelsea

Last week-end I participated in a great painting workshop at Cassioplay, instructed by the great master Mohamed Ait Mehdi.
It was really awesome, and in order to not forget the amazing techniques and tips, I’ll try this step-by-step tutorial.
Note: I couldn’t post earlier, as the miniature that we painted was a preview not yet announced by Taban. So I have to wait the release to post.

The miniature: for our class, we used the miniature of Chelsea, from the Resistance faction of the Eden game. Normally all the miniatures from that game are in metal, but to have a fine result, we worked in a resin version.

This is the model (painted by the studio), not the miniature that I painted!

Step One: Preparation
The miniature was in three parts: the right arm (armed with a sort of energy mace), the left arm (with an iron shield) and the rest of the body.
We started cleaning the molding lines. To do that, first you must analyze very carefully both sides of the piece, as it’s possible to have a step between both sides, and if you just look the side more elevated, you could miss a spot.
Also, it’s very important to see a picture of the miniature before cleaning, so you don’t ‘clean out’ a detail that you thought was a fault. In this miniature, there’s a cord that come out of one armor plate in to the leg, and I almost cut it out.
To clean the lines, use a ‘real’ hobby knife, with an unharmed blade. Touch the miniature with it in a 45° angle, and pass it very lightly in the line in the opposite direction of the blade. If there’s a difficult part (like between two folds of the clothes), try to cut the line out in one clean stroke instead.

After cleaning the pieces, assemble it with glue.
For resin miniatures, you must avoid pinning the pieces. As the resin is fragile, the pin will do more harm than good if forced, breaking deep into the miniature.

Tip: FRAGILE! When working with resin miniatures, always be careful because it’s very fragile. If you’re going to cut out the strip between the feet, you should cut it in the middle before cutting beneath the feet. If you don’t do that, I risk that the stress break the other foot.

Step Two: Priming
Before start painting, you should prime the miniature. We used white prime for this miniature.
To prime, you must put the miniature at 15 cm of the spray. Instead of pressing the valve until all the paint is gone, you should do little sprays, always moving the miniature in the arc of the spray (like the women that throw the perfume in the air and walk in). Take care to not spray too much, because a thick layer of primer can ruin the details. Spray only enough so the acrylic paint can attach to the miniature.
After the primer is dry, attach the miniature to something so you have a nice handle (an empty paint pot, a cork).

Step Three: Base Color
The base colors for this miniature were:
Leather and hair: CALTHAN BROWN (GW);
Just paint each area, leaving a solid and opaque color, without a thick layer of paint.
Start from the inside to outside, as you’re dressing up the miniature: the skin first, then de clothes, then the accessories. In this way, you avoid messing the skin when painting the clothes, as the skin is on a lower level than the clothes.

Step Four: Shadowing the Clothes
So far, so good! None of the previous phases demanded anything genius. But now the story takes a turn!
I always shadow my miniatures with a generous wash. It’s fast and even a stoned monkey can do it.
The problem is that you can’t control the pigments to assure a nice shadow, because they tend to flow to the base of the miniature (damned gravity!).
So, to make a good shadow, you must paint the shadow. For it, we used DARK FLESH (GW) diluted.
To do that, you must follow this procedure: first, take some paint from the pot and put in the pallet; clean the brush from all the paint; stroke the moist brush lightly almost horizontally in a paper towel to take the excess of water and to point it; touch the border of the paint stain and start to water down the paint with rounded movements, away from the stain, so you can control the mixture between water and paint.
To do the shadow, you must have a transparent film tainted in DARK FLESH, thin enough to make the different without covering all the base color.
Where apply it? You must analyze the miniature and try to identify the shadow areas. A good way to do that is to look on the top of the miniature, and any place that you don’t see, it’s a shadow area.
In that miniature: the bottom of the breasts, the folds in the slip, the rear of the knees. Your shadow should cover about 1/3 of the area.
How to apply it? Define the areas to shadow, and stroke if the brush, always pushing the pigments in the direction of the area that should be de darkest. The darkest area should be in DARK FLESH, and you must build the color transition until the base color as smoothest as possible.

Step Five: Lining
In this step, we’re going to delimitate every component of the miniature. That means drawing a line between two elements so the person seeing the miniature could visualize every component.
To do that, we dilute CHAOS BLACK (GW) and with a very pointy brush, draw a black line in the junction of each different part, like the between the cloth and the skin, between the sleeve of the slip and the trousers.

That’s all for the first day! I’ll try to finish second day as soon as possible, but I’ll leave the photos anyway.